Day 4
June 14th - Ullapool to Gairloch

This was the best day for the weather and possibly for the scenery too. Things didn't start too well when I had to endure a vegetarian breakfast, weetabix I can handle but mushrooms on toast ? I'm not a lover of mushrooms at the best of times but definitely not first thing in the morning. I've got no idea what some of the other stuff was and I'd prefer to keep it that way. From now on I'm hoping for bacon and eggs all the way.
As Ullapool is quite a decent-sized town I thought that this was my chance to get internet access and get the website updated. I asked at the tourist information centre and they pointed me to either the local library or a bookshop round the corner. Neither had a wireless network which is what I need. This running around meant that I didn't leave Ullapool until 10.30 and as my aim was to get to Gairloch 61 miles away I had to get a move on. The first stretch south east was into the wind but it was fairly flat so that wasn't too bad. After 15 miles I had to turn to go north west and then the hills started but I had the wind to help me along. I came across two other cyclists here who were touring the western isles. I stopped to have a look at Corrieshalloc Gorge from the observation bridge above. The view was superb, the bridge wasn't - it had a rather worrying weight limit of just 6 people and a tendency to swing in the breeze. Needless to say I got my photos and legged it. Again I couldn't stop long because my bike was waiting to be stolen at the top but it was well worth the walk down and back.
Back on the road and the scenery was just fantastic, Loch Broom on my right and a cloudless sky above. The next 10 miles reminded me of Dartmoor except that the hills were bigger. After that I started a long, sweeping descent which seemed to last forever with dense forest on my left and a huge mountain on my right. By now my stomach was rumbling and luckily I came across a pub at a place called Dundonnell on the banks of Little Loch Broom. One large beefburger and chips later I set off again. This was cycling heaven, flat roads, wind behind me, sun out, beautiful scenery. I knew it couldn't last and as I made my way down to the very picturesque Gruinard Bay I could see a nasty uphill stretch looming in the distance. This one was a killer but I have managed to cycle every inch of the way so far and I wasn't going to push the bike up this one. I had about 4 stops on the way but I eventually made it. More stunning scenery awaited me at the top, overlooking the Isle of Ewe. The road stayed level ish for a while until I reached a very quaint little place called Poolsewe which was only spoilt by another huge hill on the way out. When I reached the top of this one I thought it had to be the last before Gairloch and thankfully it was.
Gairloch seemed like a nice place and obviously everyone else thought so too because all the b&b's had 'no vacancies' signs up. Fortunately the youth hostel had a spare bed, unfortunately there is a school group staying here so I'm not expecting much sleep tonight. Today's total was 61 miles and at the end I felt as though I could carry on further so I guess I'm getting fitter. All Scottish youth hostels are self-catering so there will be no fry-up tomorrow morning and I am happy to say there will be no mushrooms on toast either.

The Routemap

The Speed (in blue) and the Elevation (in Green)