Day 9
June 19th - From Crianlarich to Stewarton
When I looked out of the window first thing this morning and saw wet
stuff falling from the sky I knew today was going to be different. I
put my waterproofs on and left the youth hostel at about 9.30 heading
straight for the local train station tea-room, which I had been told
did a mean fry-up. One mega breakfast later I set off down the west
coast of Loch Lomond. I had been warned that this was a bit of a nasty
road, really narrow and winding in places but I think the weather had
made most people stay in so I had it to myself most of the time. I took
a few photos but it's just not the same when the sun isn't shining.
The scottish drivers were being very courteous as usual and not running
me into the water like they would in Devon and I eventually came out
onto the A82 towards Glasgow.
This road was great -flat, straight and wide with what was almost a
cycle lane on the left. It felt a bit strange to not see a huge incline
in front of me but I wasn't complaining. Before I knew it I was heading
into the centre of Dumbarton. I had planned to skirt clockwise around
Glasgow but another cyclist pointed me in the direction of a cycle route
which was quite well signposted. He said it would take me through Glasgow
centre and out to the south so it sounded ideal. It was a bit hard to
follow in places, I took a few wrong turns and had to double back a
few times but the compass on the gps (which behaved itself today) helped
a lot. I went under the impressive Erskine Bridge and crossed the Clyde
near an exhibition centre where a display of tall ships was on. I followed
the cycle route through the very picturesque Pollok Estate and a few
miles later I passed a sign saying "You are now leaving Glasgow"
and a big cheer went up, it was quite a big boost to know that I was
south of the city.
By now I had passed the 50 mile mark for the day and I started thinking
about finding a b&b. I began looking . . .and looking . . .and looking.
60 miles came and went and I was heading out into the coutryside now.
I went past farms and houses which, a few days ago, would all have had
rooms to let. I even collared a chap out walking his dog to see if he
knew of anywhere to stay but all he could do was point me to the next
town 12 miles down the road. I wasn't feeling too bad despite now having
broken my daily record for this trip and decided to keep looking and
to head for that town, Stewarton. When I got there I passed one promising
looking place but it looked a bit expensive. I asked two people if there
was anywhere to stay the night and they both directed me back to that
hotel. I got the impression it was the only place in town and fortunately
they had a spare room. It wasn't that expensive and when I got into
the room I realised why, wallpaper peeling off the wall, a window which
I can't open because it'll break if I do, a 1970's green bathroom suite,
dirty tiles and a tv that doesn't work. It would be indescreet of me
to name the place so I won't mention that it's called the Millhouse
Hotel in Stewarton. However, for all its faults, after 74 miles on the
bike a warm welcome, an enormous hot bath and a free wireless network
count for a lot and this place has all of those.
Today I realised what a difference riding on flat roads can make.Tomorrow
I will head south-east towards Dumfries and if I can get near there
then I could be back in blighty by Thursday. Now the maths, I've done
521 miles in 9 days which is 58 per day and I have 729 to go. With 12
days to go, 60 per day will just about do it.
I've just looked at the graph on the gps and apparently at the end of
the day I climbed an 800 ft high cliff at 200 mph. Funny how I don't
remember doing that.
The Routemap
The Speed (in blue) and the Elevation (in green).
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