Day 10
June 20th - From Stewarton to Dumfries
The weather certainly took a turn for the worse
today. I was woken at 6am by the sound of rain outside the bedroom window
that wouldn't close properly. By the time I went downstairs for breakfast
it had got even heavier and everyone found it highly amusing that I
was going to cycle 60 miles in it. I had a continental breakfast because
the kitchen was being refitted and finally got on the bike at about
10am by which time the rain had eased a little.
My cunning plan from now on was to stick to A-roads as much as possible
so I headed for Kilmarnock to get on the A76 to Dumfries which was around
60 miles away. After 6 miles I reached Kilmarnock and noticed that the
gps had decided to die early on me today. I swore at it but that didn't
help so I had to turn it off and on again and remember to add 6 miles
on at the end.
As I got onto the A76 the weather improved and the sun was breaking
through in places. It was really hard cycling to start with, into the
wind and constantly up and down (mainly up) - nothing as steep as last
week but with my knee still aching a bit from yesterday it was enough
to slow me down. Apart from the hills the road was really good, it was
wide with a space for cyclists to the left of the white line. I went
through a few quaint villages and the scenery reminded me a lot of South
Devon.
At about the 40 mile mark I was coming into a small village called Sanquhar
when the back of the bike suddenly felt a bit rough. My dream of getting
from John O'Groats to Land's End without a puncture was over. It took
me about 15 minutes to fix it and get going again and at least it wasn't
a waste of time packing those spare inner tubes. Soon after this the
sun came out properly and it was boiling hot. I decided to go for shorts
for the first time in the whole trip and my knee felt a lot better for
not having lycra pressed against it. The good weather didn't last long
and as I reached the town of Thornhill the heavens opened and I dived
into a cafe for what I can only describe as a bucket of coffee. I had
14 miles to go to Dumfries and the rain was pretty constant the whole
way.
Dumfries seems like a nice place but a bit overly-proud of its links
to Robert Burns. There are statues of him and roads named after him
and he wasn't even born here ! His only connection with Dumfries is
that he lived here for 5 years. On arriving I found the tourist information
office and phoned one of the b&b's from the list in the window.
Ironically, it's called Torbay Lodge. The lady who runs it very kindly
(and bravely) offered to put my socks in the tumble dryer for me. The
forecast for tomorrow is for more of the same but, if I don't get any
more punctures, I should make it across the border into England which
will make me feel like I'm getting there. Lunchtime tomorrow is the
half-way point in time on this trip and today's 64 miles makes it 585
in all so another 40 will put me at the half-way point in distance.
All of a sudden I don't seem to be that far behind schedule but I do
have some hilly areas ahead of me.
The Routemap
The Speed (in blue) and the Elevation (in green). The first 6 miles
of the day are missing.
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